Baccalà
The ancient tradition that captivates modern palates
Despite Vasto having always had a port, its activity for centuries was primarily mercantile. Until the post-war period, there was no fishing fleet, and small-scale fishing was conducted either from the shore with “a sciabica” nets or from the trabocchi, wooden stilt platforms that are still present on each small rocky promontory.
In traditional recipes, preserved fish, particularly salted cod (baccalà), found its place even before fresh fish. Salted cod spread in Vasto starting from the 15th century, brought by Venetian merchants who had discovered it through their commercial relations with Norway.
But what exactly is baccalà? It is both a fish and a specific method of preservation. This term refers to Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) or Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus) that has been preserved with salt. Once the fish is caught, it is cleaned, opened, subjected to brining in a saltwater solution for at least three weeks, and only then undergoes the final salting process.
Salted cod should not be confused with stockfish, which is sun-dried cod and has very different organoleptic characteristics that make it suitable only for certain preparations. There is also another method of preservation that combines smoking and salting. This product is called Gaspé, named after the location in Quebec where it is produced, and it is an even more prized but less common variation of salted cod.
Before consumption, salted cod needs to be desalted by soaking it in cold water for three days. The salting process imparts a distinctive and intense flavor to its flesh, making it irresistible in many preparations.
However, not everything that is labeled as salted cod can be considered authentic. There are other less valuable fish that undergo the same process, such as Molvan and Brosme. There is also a modern method of preserving cod that is not related to salted cod, known as salting. In this case, the cod is processed directly on the fishing boats soon after being caught. A solution of 14% saltwater is injected into the fish, and then it is frozen. This processing technique is much more economical, but the taste of salted cod is quite different from that of authentic salted cod (baccalà).
Come previously mentioned, salted cod is a staple in Vasto, and even in the historic center, there are specialized shops where the product is sold, and you can still find large tubs where it is being desalted. Today, in addition to that, in the specialized restaurants in Vasto and the surrounding areas, you can enjoy salted cod in various different ways, including some must-try dishes such as:
Cavatelli al baccalà
Typical homemade pasta made with the characteristic motion of two fingers that “cavano” (dig out) a small piece of dough, dressed with a red sauce based on onion, tomato, and codfish.
Baccalà alla trappitara
Stewed codfish with tomato, onion, black olives, and extra virgin olive oil.
Baccalà arrosto
Grilled over charcoal and served with roasted bell pepper slices.
Baccalà fritto
Cod fillets dipped in a batter made of flour and beer, then fried in olive oil.
